Last Updated on January 6, 2026

What are the disadvantages of air source heat pumps, and are they the right option for your home?

Heat pumps are a key technology set to help the UK achieve net-zero domestic heating emissions, with the government targeting 600,000 installations per year by 2028. Air-source heat pumps are an excellent way to generate heat for your home while reducing household emissions.

However, if you’ve been researching heat pumps, you’ve probably seen wildly different opinions, from “they’re a no-brainer” to “they’re rubbish in winter.” The truth sits in the middle. In the right home, a heat pump can deliver steady, comfortable warmth with lower carbon emissions. In the wrong house, or with bad design, it can feel underpowered, cost more to run than expected, or require upgrades you didn’t budget for.

This guide cuts through the noise and focuses on the real disadvantages UK homeowners encounter, including higher upfront costs, the need for good insulation and correctly sized radiators, space for a hot water cylinder, and the importance of choosing a quality installer. It will help you understand the trade-offs, who heat pumps suit best, and how to avoid the common mistakes that give them a bad name.

Key Takeaways on Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps:

• Heat pumps cost more upfront than a boiler swap, especially if you need a cylinder or radiator upgrades.
• Insulation and correctly sized radiators matter more with heat pumps than with boilers.
• Running costs depend on tariff, system design (flow temperature), and how steadily you heat your home.
• Heat pumps still work in cold weather, but efficiency drops and poor design shows up fastest in winter.
• Factors like installation, commissioning, or home heat loss, and not the technology itself, cause most “heat pump problems.”
• Noise is usually manageable, but poor outdoor unit placement can create avoidable issues.
• Hot water performance depends on cylinder sizing and schedules, so heavy shower use needs planning.
• Annual servicing and basic upkeep help protect efficiency, reliability, and warranty coverage.

What Is An Air Source Heat Pump?

An air-source heat pump (ASHP) is a heating system that extracts heat from outdoor air and uses it to heat your home. Even on cold days, the air still contains usable heat energy. The heat pump captures that energy, concentrates it using electricity, and moves it indoors.

A helpful way to picture it is a fridge in reverse. A heat pump pulls heat out of the outdoor air and delivers it into your home. It doesn’t “create” heat from nothing; instead, it moves heat, which is why it can be efficient.

In the UK, most installations are air-to-water systems. These heat water that then circulates through your radiators or underfloor heating, and they usually heat your hot water too (stored in a cylinder). That’s why switching from a combi boiler often involves making space for a hot water cylinder.

There are also air-to-air heat pumps, which blow warm air into rooms (similar to air conditioning in heating mode). They can work well for space heating, but they typically don’t provide hot water or connect to radiators, so they’re less common as a whole-home replacement for a standard boiler setup.

Disadvantages Of Air Source Heat Pumps (And How To Reduce Each One)

Most “heat pump problems” are due to a mismatch between the heat pump and the home. Heat pumps rely more on good insulation, correctly sized radiators (or underfloor heating), and well-set controls. If any of those pieces are missing, you can end up with higher bills, cooler rooms, or a system that feels like it’s always working.

Cost Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps

Air source heat pumps usually cost more to install than a boiler, and that headline fact is what stops many homeowners in their tracks. The catch is that gas boiler vs heat pump quotes differ, with heat pumps often including work that a boiler quote doesn’t. You’re not just buying a box on the wall but a system that must provide low-temperature heating.

In practice, your home’s “readiness” will impact the price. If you’re replacing a combi boiler with a heat pump, you may need a hot water cylinder. You may also need to upgrade the radiators if they’re undersized. If the pipework is old or poorly laid out, you may need changes to achieve the correct flow rates.

What Usually Pushes The Price Up?

Cost Driver	What It Means In Real Life	How To Keep It Under Control
Hot Water Cylinder	Space + plumbing changes, especially from combi	Check space early; plan cylinder location
Radiator Upgrades	Bigger emitters for lower temps	Room-by-room heat loss + targeted upgrades
Pipework Changes	Flow/return improvements, messy routes	Ask what’s essential vs “nice to have”
Electrical Works	Consumer unit or cabling changes	Get this assessed upfront, not mid-install

How To Reduce This Downside

Get multiple quotes and compare design assumptions, not just price. A cheaper quote that ignores heat-loss calculations can cost you more later, in terms of comfort and running costs. If the budget is tight, focus first on low-cost fabric improvements (draught-proofing, loft insulation) because they reduce the size and strain of the system.

You May Need Radiator and Insulation Upgrades

One of the most misunderstood disadvantages is that heat pumps often require a home that retains heat. Boilers tend to deliver short bursts of very hot water to radiators, which can “mask” poor insulation. Heat pumps usually work best by delivering gentler heat for longer, so heat loss becomes far more apparent.

That’s why some households find their home doesn’t reach the desired temperature after a heat pump installation. It’s not that the heat pump can’t heat the space, but that the house is losing heat faster than the system can deliver it at efficient temperatures. The fix is usually about reducing heat loss and improving heat delivery.

What Upgrades Might You Need?

• Radiator upgrades: often a few key rooms rather than every radiator
• Insulation improvements: loft, cavity wall, or targeted internal insulation where needed
• Draught-proofing: doors, windows, floors, loft hatches
• Hot water cylinder: standard if moving away from a combi boiler

How To Reduce This Downside

Don’t accept vague advice like “you’ll probably need new radiators.” Ask for a room-by-room plan: which rooms, which radiators, and what indoor temperature the design targets. Pair that with a simple insulation plan, so you’re not paying for oversized equipment to compensate for avoidable heat loss.

If you can’t insulate or won’t upgrade radiators where necessary, a heat pump can still work. However, it may run hotter, less efficiently, and feel more expensive than you expected.

Running Cost Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps

Running costs are where online opinions become extreme, because the same heat pump can be cheap to run in one home and expensive in another. Heat pumps are efficient, but they run on electricity, and electricity costs more per unit than gas. That means your bill depends on a tug-of-war between efficiency gains and electricity prices.

Two things usually cause disappointment. First, the home leaks heat, forcing the heat pump to work harder for longer. Second, the system runs like a boiler: short heating bursts, high temperatures, constant thermostat fiddling, and no control optimisation. That combination can push the heat pump into less efficient operating zones.

The Biggest Levers That Change Running Cost

• Heat loss: insulation and draughts
• Flow temperature: lower is usually better for efficiency
• Tariff: standard vs time-of-use / heat pump friendly plans
• Controls: steady temperatures vs “on-off” habits

How To Reduce This Downside

Ask installers what flow temperature they’re designing for, and what comfort level they expect you to maintain. Then make sure you understand how to run the system: steady, predictable heating usually wins. If your household can shift some usage, a time-of-use tariff can also help, especially when paired with smart controls.

If you’re on mains gas with a modern boiler and you don’t plan to improve insulation or change how you heat your home, you’ll get low savings. The value proposition might be carbon reduction and comfort, rather than dramatic bill cuts.

Heat Feel Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps

The warmth from a heat pump can feel different. With a boiler, radiators can heat up quickly, and people often associate “hot radiators” with “working heating.” Heat pumps tend to deliver lower-temperature heat for longer, which can make radiators feel warm rather than scorching.

This isn’t a fault but the standard operating style of low-temperature systems. Comfort comes from steady background warmth, not quick bursts. If you heat the house for an hour in the morning and an hour at night, that habit can clash with how heat pumps run most efficiently.

What This Means in Daily Life

• Rooms warm up more gradually, especially in cold spells
• The best results often come from keeping a consistent setpoint
• Big temperature swings can be more complex and costlier to recover from

How To Reduce This Downside

Set expectations before you install. A heat pump is usually happiest maintaining a steady indoor temperature rather than chasing rapid changes. Good controls (like weather compensation) can make this “set and forget” approach feel natural, but only if the system is appropriate. The radiators are sized to deliver enough heat at lower temperatures.

If you love the “blast heating” feeling and you’re unlikely to change your routine, discuss that honestly with installers. A heat pump can still work, but it may need higher temperatures, which can reduce efficiency and increase running costs.

Winter Performance Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps

Many people worry that heat pumps won’t cope in winter, because it feels counterintuitive to take heat from cold air. In reality, there’s still usable heat energy in the air at low temperatures, and heat pumps can extract it. The more important truth is that efficiency drops as temperatures drop, so the system has to work harder to deliver the same level of comfort.

The biggest winter “fails” are usually design issues, not technology limits. If a home has high heat loss, undersized radiators, or a heat pump that’s too small for the property, winter is when those weaknesses show up. It can feel like the system is always on, yet rooms still don’t reach the desired temperature.

What Changes in Winter?

• The heat pump may run longer to maintain comfort
• Efficiency can dip during colder spells
• Defrost cycles can occur (normal behaviour)

How To Reduce This Downside

A proper heat loss calculation is non-negotiable. You want a system sized for your property, not a generic “rule of thumb.” Combine that with insulation improvements and radiator sizing, and winter comfort becomes far more predictable.

If your home is extremely leaky and upgrades aren’t possible, a heat pump can still operate. However, you may face higher running costs and less responsive heating.

Noise And Vibration

Noise worries are common because the outdoor unit contains a fan and compressor, so it will make noise when operating. An independent UK government review found a low incidence of noise complaints, and where complaints did occur, they were associated with poor-quality installations and location/proximity factors. 

Most of the time, that noise is at the background level and quickly becomes “normal,” but poor placement can make it noticeable. The most typical complaints come from units installed too close to bedroom windows, tight corners that reflect sound, or mounts that transmit vibration into walls.

It’s also worth knowing that noise perception is personal. A sound that one household ignores may bother another, particularly at night in quiet areas. That’s why planning the location properly matters as much as the unit choice.

What Usually Causes Noise Problems?

• Tight spaces that amplify sound
• Poor anti-vibration mounting
• Location near boundaries or sensitive rooms
• Insufficient airflow causing the fan to work harder

How To Reduce This Downside

Treat siting as part of the design, not an afterthought. Ask where the unit will go, why that location was chosen, and what vibration control is included. If you’re close to neighbours, discuss it early and pick a location that reduces the chance of conflict.

A heat pump should not sound like a construction site. If your installer dismisses your noise concerns without explaining placement, clearance, and vibration control, that’s a red flag.

Space Requirements: Outdoor Unit and Hot Water Cylinder

Heat pumps take up more space than boilers often do. The outdoor unit needs a sensible location with good airflow, and many homes will need a hot water cylinder indoors. If you’re coming from a combi boiler, the cylinder requirement can feel like a step backwards, especially in smaller homes where every cupboard matters.

This is one of the most practical “yes or no” issues, because you can’t solve it with clever marketing. If you don’t have cylinder space and you can’t create it, the project gets complicated fast. Likewise, if you can’t place an outdoor unit without blocking access paths, upsetting neighbours, or restricting airflow, you’ll struggle.

What To Check Before You Get Quotes

• Do you have a realistic location for the cylinder (airing cupboard, utility space, or loft suitability)?
• Is there a clear outdoor spot with ventilation and manageable noise impact?
• Can you route pipes neatly without significant disruption?

How To Reduce This Downside

Measure early and plan honestly. A good installer will walk the property and suggest practical locations, not just “where it’s easiest for us.” If space is tight, you may need to reconfigure storage or move other utilities, which is better planned upfront than discovered midway through installation.

If you’re in a flat or leasehold property, permissions and shared space rules can become the fundamental constraint, so factor that into feasibility from day one.

Installation Disruption Compared to A Boiler Swap

Replacing a boiler can be a quick job. Installing a heat pump can be more complex because it often involves new controls, a cylinder, changes to pipework, and, sometimes, radiator upgrades. Even when the work is tidy, it can be more disruptive than homeowners expect, especially if pipe routes need to be reworked.

Disruption isn’t just about mess. It’s also about decisions: where the cylinder goes, where the outdoor unit sits, how pipes are routed, and how the system will be controlled. If those decisions are rushed, you can end up with awkward layouts, noisy placement, or controls you don’t understand.

What A Proper Install Should Include

• Clear scope of work and what you’re changing
• Commissioning and system setup (not just “it’s on”)
• User handover: how to run it efficiently and comfortably

How To Reduce This Downside

Ask for a step-by-step installation plan before signing. A reputable installer will explain what happens on each day, what access they need, and how they’ll protect your home. Insist on commissioning and a clear handover. Many “bad heat pump experiences” are really “bad handovers,” where the system is never tuned to the house or the household.

If you want minimal disruption, you can still pursue a heat pump, but you may need a staged approach: insulation first, then heating upgrades, then the heat pump installation.

Planning Permission: Usually Fine, Sometimes Not

In many cases, you can install a heat pump under permitted development rules, but it’s not universal. Your property type, location, and local restrictions can change what’s allowed. Listed buildings, conservation areas, flats, and leasehold arrangements often introduce extra steps, and neighbour proximity can affect what counts as acceptable placement.

The key issue is that planning and permissions are easiest to handle before you commit money. If you pay a deposit and only then discover you can’t place the unit where needed, you can end up in a stressful negotiation or an expensive redesign.

When You Should Check Early

• You live in a conservation area or a listed building
• You’re in a flat, maisonette, or leasehold property
• The outdoor unit would be close to a neighbour’s window or boundary
• Your only viable location is on a front elevation or shared access area

How To Reduce This Downside

Ask your installer what assumptions they’re making about permitted development and whether they’ve handled similar properties nearby. If in doubt, check with your local planning office early, or ask for written confirmation of the approach. For leasehold, obtain landlord/freeholder consent in writing before booking installation dates.

Planning issues are manageable when surfaced early. They become painful when discovered late.

Maintenance, Servicing, and Installer Dependency

Heat pumps are generally low maintenance, but they can be more sensitive to system design and setup than boilers. When problems occur, they’re often about controls, flow temperatures, or system balancing rather than a single faulty component. That means your installer’s competence and willingness to support you after installation matter a lot.

This is also where many homeowners feel abandoned. A heat pump can work well, but only if it’s adequately commissioned, explained properly, and adjusted when real-life usage reveals what the design didn’t anticipate. If the installer disappears or blames “how you’re using it” without diagnosing, frustration builds fast.

What Good Aftercare Looks Like

• A clear air source heat pump servicing schedule and what it includes
• Warranty responsibilities explained in plain English
• A commissioning report and settings baseline
• A follow-up visit or support window after the first cold spell

How To Reduce This Downside

Choose an installer based on design quality and aftercare, not just price. Ask how they handle callouts, what typical response times look like, and who is responsible if the manufacturer is involved. Get the warranty terms in writing, including the actions you must take (such as annual servicing) to keep it valid.

A heat pump is a long-term system. The best installs come with long-term support.

Cost In The UK (2026): What You’ll Pay and What Drives It

The Energy Saving Trust places the typical cost of installing an air source heat pump at around £11,000, while Citizens Advice notes that it’s around £13,000. The “system around the heat pump” often determines the final bill.

Two homes can buy the same model and pay very different totals, depending on cylinder requirements, radiator upgrades, pipework complexity, and the amount of commissioning and controls included.

In general, a quote becomes more expensive when it moves from “unit + basic fit” into “whole heating system redesign.” That’s not necessarily a bad thing. It’s often the reason the system performs well, but it does mean you should compare quotes based on what they include, not just the headline figure.

A sensible way to think about cost is: base install + likely extras + avoidable extras. Base install covers the outdoor unit, indoor components, and standard labour. Likely extras are cylinders and a few radiator upgrades. Avoidable extras are what you pay for when a home is very leaky or when a design tries to brute-force comfort with higher temperatures rather than reducing heat loss.

You can use our air source heat pump calculator to get an estimate.

Quick Cost Drivers Checklist (Use This When Comparing Quotes)

• Are radiator upgrades included in the fixed scope, or are they “TBC”?
• Is a hot water cylinder included (and where will it go)?
• Does the quote include full commissioning and controls setup?
• Are there any electrical works?

Grants And Support: What’s Available

Air source heat pump grants can transform affordability for most UK homeowners. In England and Wales, the primary support mechanism is typically the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, which allows eligible homes to claim £7,500 off the cost of installing an air source heat pump. The scheme will run until 31 March 2027, and includes 0% VAT on the installation.

A common mistake is treating grants as “money you’ll definitely get” without first checking eligibility. Some schemes require specific installer certifications and documentation, and some property types may not qualify. The best installers will clearly explain the grant process and include it in the quote structure, rather than leaving you to figure it out later.

If grants are part of your decision, build your shortlist around installers who are experienced with the paperwork and can explain the timeline and the evidence required. You want clarity on what happens if your application is delayed, what you pay upfront, and what the final invoice will look like after support is applied.

Running Costs: When A Heat Pump Can Save Money (And When It Might Not)

The simplest way to understand running costs is to focus on four levers: heat loss, system temperature, electricity tariff, and how you use heating day to day. If two of those are working against you, a heat pump can feel expensive. If three or four are working in your favour, it can be very competitive.

Heat pumps often look strongest when replacing old electric heating, LPG, or oil, because those fuels are typically costly or carbon-intensive. They can be more borderline when replacing mains gas, especially if you already have a modern boiler and you don’t plan to improve insulation. That doesn’t mean “don’t do it,” but that your primary benefit may be carbon reduction and comfort, not guaranteed bill savings.

For a realistic view, ask installers to estimate annual consumption based on your home’s heat loss and your likely flow temperature. Then pressure-test that estimate: what happens if it’s colder than average, if your setpoint is higher than planned, or if you don’t change tariff?

Noise, Neighbours, and Planning: The Practical Reality

Most noise and planning worries come down to location. A well-sited unit with good airflow and vibration control is usually not an issue. A poorly sited unit that’s squeezed into a corner, mounted poorly, or placed near a bedroom window can become “the thing you can’t un-hear,” especially in quiet neighbourhoods.

Planning is similar: many homes won’t need formal permission, but exceptions can apply. Flats, leaseholds, listed buildings, and conservation areas can introduce extra steps. The risk is rarely that heat pumps are “banned” but that people discover constraints late, after they’ve mentally and financially committed.

Treat noise and permissions as part of the feasibility check, not admin to deal with later. If your property is close to neighbours or has limited placement options, ask for siting details in writing, including how vibration will be managed and why that location was chosen.

Home Suitability Checklist (Fast Self-Check)

Use this checklist to work out whether a heat pump is likely to be smooth and successful, or whether you’ll face extra cost and compromises. You don’t need a perfect score, but if you’re ticking very few boxes, it’s a signal to fix constraints first.

Heat Pump Fit Checklist

• I can improve the insulation, or my home is already reasonably insulated.
• I’m open to upgrading some radiators if a heat-loss survey indicates it’s needed.
• I have space (or can make space) for a hot water cylinder if required.
• I have a sensible outdoor location for the unit with good airflow.
• I’m happy with steady “background warmth” rather than short heating bursts.
• I can consider a suitable electricity tariff and smart controls.

If you tick 5–6, you’re typically in strong territory. If you tick 3–4, it may still work well, but you’ll need a careful design and potentially staged upgrades. Homes ticking 0–2 should focus on insulation, space planning, and heating system readiness before committing.

Questions To Ask Installers on the Disadvantages of Air Source Heat Pumps

A heat pump quote is only as good as the assumptions behind it. Two quotes can look similar, but one might be designed appropriately while the other is guesswork. These questions force clarity and help you compare offers fairly.

Design and Performance

• Will you perform a room-by-room heat-loss calculation?
• What flow temperature are you designing around, and why?
• Which radiators need changing, and what will the new outputs be?

Comfort and Controls

• What controls are included (weather compensation, zoning, smart thermostat)?
• How will you set up the system to reflect my routine and comfort preferences?
• What does “commissioning” include, and do you provide a handover?

Practicalities and Aftercare

• Where will the outdoor unit go, and how will you manage noise/vibration?
• Who handles warranty issues? You or the manufacturer?
• What support do you provide after installation, especially in the first winter?

Final Thoughts on the Disadvantages of Air-Source Heat Pumps

Air-source heat pumps can be an excellent low-carbon heating option, but the disadvantages are real and predictable. Upfront cost, potential radiator or insulation upgrades, and running-cost uncertainty are the big three. Noise, space requirements, and installation disruption are usually manageable, but only when appropriately planned.

If you want the best chance of success, prioritise insulation and heat loss reduction, insist on a proper design process, and compare quotes based on performance assumptions rather than the lowest price. A heat pump is less forgiving than a boiler, but when well-designed, it can be comfortable, quiet, and reliable.

FAQs on the Disadvantages of Air-Source Heat Pumps

What Are Three Disadvantages Of Using A Heat Pump?

One is a higher upfront cost than a boiler swap, especially if you need a hot water cylinder or radiator upgrades. Heat pumps are also less forgiving in leaky homes because good insulation and appropriately sized radiators matter more at lower temperatures.

Running costs can also disappoint if the system is set to high flow temperatures or you’re on an expensive electricity tariff. Most of these downsides are manageable, but only with good design, commissioning, and setup.

Can You Run A Shower From An Air Source Heat Pump?

Yes, you can run a shower from an air-source heat pump because most UK systems heat domestic hot water in a cylinder. The shower then draws from that stored hot water just like a conventional hot water system.

Cylinder size, reheat rate, and scheduling are what determine whether this happens. An appropriately sized cylinder and a sensible hot water programme usually prevent any issues.

What Is The Life Expectancy of An Air Source Heat Pump?

A typical air-source heat pump lasts 15–20 years, though its real-world lifespan depends on design and maintenance. Outdoor components like the fan and compressor take the most wear because they’re exposed to weather. Systems running at lower temperatures in well-insulated homes are generally under less strain and can last longer.

Do Air Source Heat Pumps Use A Lot Of Electricity?

They use electricity, but they’re designed to deliver more heat energy than the electrical energy they consume by moving heat from outside to inside. Your electricity use will usually rise if you replace a gas boiler because electricity becomes your central heating “fuel.”

A well-designed system in an insulated home can be efficient and predictable, while a leaky home can push consumption up. Tariffs and controls also matter, because cheaper off-peak periods can reduce costs for hot water and heating.

At What Temperature Do Air Source Heat Pumps Stop Working?

Most modern heat pumps don’t have one universal “stop temperature,” because limits vary by model and manufacturer. What consistently happens is that efficiency and heat output decrease as outdoor temperatures fall.

In UK conditions, a correctly designed system should keep your home warm through cold spells, but it may run longer to do so. The practical limit is often the home’s heat loss and radiator sizing rather than the heat pump’s ability to operate.

What Are The Problems With Air Source Heat Pumps?

The most common problems are usually system and setup issues rather than the technology itself. Typical complaints include rooms not reaching the desired temperature, higher bills than expected, or a system that runs constantly.

These often trace back to incorrect sizing, radiators that can’t deliver enough heat at low temperatures, or controls that aren’t configured correctly. Noise issues are also usually linked to poor placement or vibration transfer, not “normal” operation. A proper commissioning review and settings/design adjustments can fix many of these issues.

Why Is My House So Cold With A Heat Pump?

Homes are usually cold with a heat pump because the property is losing heat quickly, or the heating system can’t deliver enough heat at low temperatures. Undersized radiators, poor insulation, and draughts are the most common culprits.

Another frequent cause is flow temperature being set too low for your home’s current heat loss, especially during colder weather.

Do Air Source Heat Pumps Need Servicing?

Yes, they need servicing, and many installers recommend annual checks to maintain efficiency and reliability. Servicing differs from a boiler’s because there’s no combustion, but performance and safety checks still matter.

A service typically focuses on system pressures/flow, electrical connections, controls, and general condition. Homeowner upkeep also helps, like keeping the outdoor unit clear of leaves and ensuring airflow isn’t blocked.

Sources and References

• UK Parliament – Heat Pumps
• GOV.UK – Review of Air Source Heat Pump Noise Emissions, Permitted Development Guidance and Regulations
• Energy Saving Trust – Air source heat pumps
• Citizens Advice – Deciding if a heat pump is right for you
• Ofgem – Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS)